Xiang Shan Gong Yuan

The Fragrant Hills Park is an oasis just beyond the Western suburbs of Beijing, about 30-40 minutes by taxi from the center of town (if there is no traffic). With a history dating back to its establishment in 1186 (this is not a typo, but an 800+ year history!), it is a favorite recreation spot for Beijingers seeking fresh air, particularly in October, when the leaves of the smoke trees turn bright red.

Lina met me at 6:30 this morning, we picked up her sister Weiyun on the way and took a taxi to the base of the hills. By the time we got there, there were already hundreds of early-risers returning from their hike up the mountain and back, mainly very fit older folks. We had breakfast of steamed vegetable buns, soy milk and tofu, then set out on our trek. Highlights of the hike included:

> Wedding couples, with brides in fancy white dresses, having their photos taken by a scenic pond with pagoda;

> A large group of Beijingers singing old patriotic military songs that all Chinese learned in school, with a conductor and accordion player - apparently random people collect at this stone amphitheater in the woods on the weekends for two hours of communal singing, hike and then return to Beijing (not much interest from the younger generation);

> Doing exercises at the level plain part way up the mountain, a favorite resting spot, including walking on the special "foot massage" paths barefoot (although I was told by the locals that it's better with special thin socks);

> The rather strenuous 900-meter, 638-step hike the rest of the way up to Devil Frowning Peak (also known as Incense Burner Peak) at 557 m elevation;

> The pavillions and sights at the top of the mountain (although even up here, the air was not too good today, so visibility was poor - on a clear day, you can apparently see all the way to Beijing);

> Meeting a cute little boy and his father, who did a did an English ABC singing performance for me, and, as one of very few foreigners at the park, encountering dozens of friendly Chinese saying hello to me;

> Riding the 1.4-kilometer Chinese-designed & -built chair lift (which they call a "cableway" and which the explanatory sign even indicates is driven by a 75 kW motor - maybe an opportunity for A+B to recommend a high-efficiency motor?) back down the mountain, with panoramic views of the Fragrant Hills;

> Seeing IM Pei's famous (or infamous) only mainland China project, the Fragrant Hill Hotel, from the chair lift (see http://www.pcfandp.com/a/p/7905/s.html for further info).

It was a wonderful day and I am lucky to have such a great friend here in Beijing!